The Kumbh Mela is the largest congregation of humanity on the banks of Ganges in Prayagraj. Millions of Hindu come, take dip in the holy Ganges to wash away their sins, and seek salvation for the cycle of birth and death. Can an event like this, which is held every 12 years, be converted into a political stunt by the ruling party in the election year?

It’s possible. It isn’t even the Kumbh this year—it’s the ardha-Kumbh or half-Kumbh, held between two Kumbh Melas. Yet believers, the administration, and the party in power want to make it bigger than it is. There are indications that this mega event is less of a spiritual quest and driven more by religious-political issues: the Hindu nationalist agenda.

The Vishwa Hindu Parishad has a sprawling 14 acre campus in Sector 14 of Kumbh. There a big wooden model on display of the proposed Ram Temple on the site of the demolished Babri Masjid. It’s become a popular selfie point for younger folks. Rajesh Kumar, a civil services aspirant from Bhagalpur, is particularly thrilled it. “If the model is so beautiful, imagine how good the temple would be?” he says in Hindi. “I can’t wait anymore. They are not allowing the Ram Temple at Ram’s birthplace. Is this democracy? Hindus suffer in their own country. Is this the India we want to live in?”

Ram Shankar Kaushik, the Pranta Seva Pramukh (state service chief) of the VHP, gives a detailed description of the motives of the Dharam Sansad—a two-day religious conference being organised by the VHP at the end of the month. “There shouldn’t be any doubt that the construction of the Ram Temple on Ram Janmabhoomi is the main issue of the Dharam Sansad. Whatever is decided will be implemented all over the country.” Kaushik says there are two specific demands. One, that the Supreme Court decides the Ram Janmabhoomi case before the VHP’s deadline, which will be announced after the Sansad. Two, the government should acquire the land—and bring about the necessary legislation, if need be—and hand it over to the VHP for the construction of the temple.

Ram Shankar Kaushik from the VHP.

It does raise the question of why the VHP was silent for the last four years, though. Raking up the temple issue just before the elections seems like political posturing. It’s also probably why the ardha-Kumbh is being celebrated as a Kumbh Mela.

There has been much controversy about Rahul Gandhi’s proposed trip to Kumbh, which some sections of the BJP describe as political opportunism. But it’s noteworthy that apart from BJP flags mounted on the bonnets of “VIP” SUVs and hundreds of posters of Modi and Yogi Adityanath—there’s not a single poster or picture of leaders from any other political party. Ram Shankar Kaushik backs this up: “In this Kumbh, because it’s organised by a nationalist government, you won’t find a single picture of the dynasts—the Nehru-Gandhi family.”

Kaushik minces no words when it comes to reviving the Ram Temple issue. “We have been supporting this cause since 1984. There’s no denying the fact that with Modi and Yogi in power, it should have happened. Sarkar par dabav bana rakha hai. Abhi tak nahin hua hai, es baat ki nirasha hai. Kintu asha ki kiran samapatha nahin hui hai (We continue to pressure the government. We are upset it hasn’t happened as yet. But we’re still hopeful).” He claims the obstruction is that the BJP and like-minded parties don’t have majority in the Rajya Sabha—even though the new reservation bill managed to pass in the House. Kaushik dismisses this, calling that a “different kind” of issue where no party would play “spoilsport”.

Nationalists from all walks of life will be invited to the Dharam Sansad—but not Muslims. “Muslims are not allowed,” Kaushik says, before clarifying: “Muslims are not invited.”

Next to the VHP campus, 100 simultaneous yajnas are being performed under the guidance of Acharya Navalji inside one of the tallest pandals in the whole of Kumbh. The ceremonies are for the soldiers of the Indian Army who died for the nation. A national flag flutters on top of the pandal, which is lined with larger-than-life images of the 21 winners of the Param Vir Chakra, the highest gallantry award, including Abdul Hamid. Apart from shouting “har har Mahadev”, the sages also raise slogans like “Vande Mataram” and “Bharat Mata ki jai”.

The campus of the Yogi Mahasabha Gorakhnath Akhada—headed by CM Yogi Adityanath, their adyaksha (chairman)—is not far from the VHP quarters. The VHP’s office bearers have already confirmed Yogi Adityanath’s participation. Two of the Akhada’s senior leaders—Yogi Moti Nath of Haridwar and their publicity head Yogi Vilas Nath Maharaj-ji—are initially reluctant to speak but finally admit they aren’t happy with progress on the Ram Temple front.

Yogi Moti Singh (foreground) with Yogi Vilas Nath Maharaj.

“Ram Temple is an issue of faith. It’s not wrong to say that millions of Hindus are looking expectantly towards honourable Prime Minister Modiji and honourable chief minister Yogiji,” says Yogi Moti Nath. “Both the leaders, from the very beginning, believe in Sri Ram and the Hindu culture. That’s why millions of Hindus trust them and feel that in the year 2019, before the elections are held, the foundation stone of Ram temple should be laid, and bhumi-pujan performed. This is also the hope of various akhadas, temples, sages and saints assembled here in Kumbh: that the construction of the temple should start soon.”

He sternly adds: “Goraknath baba said you reap what you sow. If the Ram Temple is not built soon, it will hurt the sentiments of millions of Hindu and the repercussions of it will be felt in the elections. The results in the three recently-held Assembly elections are indicative of it.”

Yogi Vilas Nath Maharaj is more pensive. He’s seated inside his luxurious tent, surrounded by study material and copies of phone directories which list various Kumbh Mela administrative officials—predominantly Brahmins and upper-caste. “We have to move forward, together with Muslims,” he says. “Opposition towards Muslims will not lead to anything. We need both positive and negative charge for the current to flow. Both devta (angles) and aasur (demon) were required to churn out nectar from the sea in Amrit Manthan. We need the cooperation of Muslims and not conflict with them to solve this problem. If the Ram Temple is built, Ram and Rahim will become one. Religion and caste politics will end. That’s why, perhaps, politicians want to keep this issue alive.”

He says Muslims he’s met in India and abroad want an amicable solution and have no objections to the temple’s construction if it brings peace. “Instead of killing Muslims, if these politicians have the real power, they should convert them to Hinduism.”

Other akharas have their own debates on the Ram Temple. Many seem at the edge of their patience. Discussions include river-linking and the amendment of the Constitution to realise the vision of “Akhand Bharat”. The pronouncement of a belligerent Nagas sadhu, Giri Raj from Haridwar, sums up the popular sentiment. Raising his sword high in the air, he says, “We are the soldiers of Shiva, and we are here to protect the faith.”